Omaha has a long history of memorable restaurants specializing in Indian cuisine, some now closed, but nonetheless fondly remembered: the Indian Oven, Jaipur Restaurant, and Taste of India, to name a few. Shahi India Grill, located in the heart of the Old Market, certainly deserves to be a part of that illustrious culinary pantheon. It promises “Nothing Is Ordinary Here,” and for the most part, Shahi delivers on that tagline.
It starts with the interior, which is upscale and contemporary and features a large water fountain that is both eye-catching and provides a nice source of white noise. It proved a lovely backdrop to the evening, lightly drowning out background chatter with its musically looping water cycle. Another important backdrop—the fragrant aroma of Indian cooking that wafted through the air. Scents like cardamom and cinnamon whet the appetite and set the mood like only a good kitchen can.
Our table of three stopped by on a quiet weeknight, which provided a lovely opportunity for slow-paced dining. We started with two appetizers and a plate of naan. The Paneer Pakora was light, fluffy, and went at a rapid clip. Paneer is a non-melting Indian cottage cheese that is made fresh by curdling milk. Deep fried in chickpea flour, these fritters came with a teasingly tangy dipping sauce that highlighted the lovely contrast between the crispy exterior and creamy interior. This is a favorite street food in India, popular at street-side places like tapris (tea stalls) and dhabas (roadside restaurants), and it’s easy to see why. Shahi’s were irresistible and slightly addictive.
Our second starter was the Shahi Combination Appetizer platter, which featured generous helpings of vegetable samosa, vegetable pakora, chicken pakora, shrimp, and more paneer pakora. The golden vegetable samosa were delectable—the filling, which included peas, carrots, and potato, was lightly punctuated with garam masala, a classic blend of mixed spices like coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, and cumin. The vegetable pakora were lovely little deep-fried vegetarian fritters, featuring spicy vegetables and a succulent crust. The chicken pakora was a riff on the same—tender, moist marinated chicken deep fried in chickpea flour to a golden crisp. Mild and nutty, the pakora practically melted on the tongue. The deep-fried shrimp was also hotly vied after by the entire table. Crackly on the outside, juicy on the interior, the delicate shellfish rounded out the appetizer assortment perfectly. Dipping sauces brought out the flavors of each even more and added a nice communal vibe to the dining experience.
While it was difficult to settle on just one naan for table, we eventually ordered the Bullet Naan. The white-flour flat bread was stuffed with homemade cheese, onion, cilantro, and jalapeño and served topped with a spicy, hot butter. The spice level was perfect, providing just enough oomph without overwhelmingly the subtlety of the naan. This was the dish we all found ourselves compulsively returning to repeatedly, and it emerged as the table’s favorite starter. Fortunately, it was a heaping serving so it more than satisfied all three of us.
For our main dishes, we aimed for a broad sampling, from meat and heat to vegan. My dining companions opted for the Alu Gobi (vegan) and the Chicken Tandoori (meat), while I selected the Madras with Paneer (heat). Each provided a view into the kitchen’s impressive capability for creating wide and varied interpretations of Indian classics. We naturally all did a taste testing of each others’ menu items, which came with fluffy bowls of perfectly executed rice.
The Alu Gobi featured fresh cauliflower (gobi) and potatoes (alu). Steamed with tomatoes and onions and enlivened with both spices and aromatics, this dish is a beloved Indian comfort food, a fragrantly hearty stew with a gorgeous golden color thanks to turmeric. The cauliflower and potatoes had the perfect “bite”—they were just firm enough without devolving into sogginess, which is often a challenge when preparing this dish.
Chicken Tandoori is of course a popular staple at any Indian restaurant. Shahi’s version featured boneless chicken marinated in yogurt and Indian spices that was then grilled to savory succulence. Juicy and tender, the chicken had a sauce with a perfect blend of garlic, onion, ginger, and garam masala. Paired with the rice, it made for a delectable menu selection.
For my main course, I went with the Madras with Paneer. I found the homemade cottage cheese so delicious as an appetizer, I was eager to sample it prepared in an entree. Cooked in a spicy coconut curry with dry red chili peppers, herbs, and cumin, this dish comes with a warning on the menu: “Super hot dish.” I requested maximum spiciness and was not disappointed—quite the opposite. I was delighted with the chili kick this dish had. It throughly balanced with the paneer, making this meal a must-order for anyone who likes to live life on the spicy side.
The service throughout the evening was solid, but a little remote. Our server was quick to take our order and bring us our food as soon as it was ready, but he wasn’t very conversational when it came to answering questions about the menu. On the plus side, we had more than enough food to take home for lunch the next day, and to our delight, the take-away containers were plastic and BPA free. That was a major plus for us, one that insures not only future dine-in experiences but take-out orders as well.
For more information, visit shahiomaha.com.
This article originally appeared in the September 2024 issue of Omaha Magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.
