There is something absurdly charming about settling into a booth at the Committee Chophouse. Located in the lower level of the Kimpton Cottonwood Hotel in the heart of the Blackstone district, the restaurant boasts warm leather, dim lighting, and plenty of history. United States presidents have dined here, including Truman, Kennedy, and Nixon, and this illustrious guest list lends to the thrill of experiencing an evening out in such a storied setting. The name stems from the group of the Blackstone’s original movers and shakers, the men who gathered weekly during the 1920s and ‘30s to play poker and dine together. They formed the “committee” that made major decisions, and over a century later, the moniker still distinguishes this as a place to see and be seen.
And eat—eat very, very well, that is. When my dining companion, wine expert Allyson Proske, and I arrived for dinner in early April, we were in for a culinary tour de force that made for a truly remarkable repast, one made all the more delightful by our cheerful and extremely well-informed server, who knew exactly when to check in and when to let us simply chat.
We began with glasses of Rémy champagne—crisp, cleansing, and perfect for preparing palates for a serious dining experience. We then moved to a 2021 bottle of 100% Napa Valley Shiraz from Darioush Winery. Elegantly complex, pungently smooth, and teasing on the tongue, this wine, contained in a ridiculously heavy bottle with an extremely deep punt, was perfect for the courses we had coming our way. “It just tastes like Napa!’ Allyson enthused, nodding her approval.
For a shared starter, we opted for the fromage board, which included a solid selection of artisanal cheeses imported from France. It’s vital that cheeses of this caliber be brought to room temperature at least a half hour to 45 minutes before serving. As cheese softens when removed from the refrigerator, our taste buds can better access the fatty flavors. Nothing ruins a world-class cheese more than serving it cold. This cheese board was perfectly tempered and offered an ideal sampling of cheeses, from creamy and mild to unapologetically forceful, with blueberries and crushed pistachios making for perfect taste-enhancing accompaniments.
There was a deliciously smooth and creamy triple-cream brie, always a delightful start to any fromage board. Then came a buttery, nutty Saint Nectaire, an “Appellation d’Origine Protégée,” or “protected origin” cheese from France’s Auvergne region. A semi-soft Port Salut had a nice mild flavor, with Allyson thoughtfully observing: “Texturally, it’s very beautiful.” The final cheese was a Forme d’Auberge bleu, or cow’s milk blue cheese, which is one of the oldest produced in France with a maturation process that lasts between two and three months. Given its strong flavor, this is a cheese best reserved for last so it doesn’t overpower its milder board companions. A nibble of this bleu followed by a sip of the Darioush was sublime. “It’s very beautiful with an earthy after taste,” Allyson remarked. “After a sip of the wine, it’s like, ‘Well, hi!’ It’s kind of like a truffle—nutty but funky.”
Next we moved on to salads—a classic wedge and Caesar, both of which seemed apropos given the setting. A whisper of fresh dill and oregano enlivened the wedge, as did the pickled onion and warm, crispy lardons. The bleu cheese dressing was creamy and had just the right pungency to enliven the humble iceberg lettuce. “I just love a wedge!” Allyson proclaimed smiling. “It’s my favorite salad in a steakhouse!” I felt the same about the Caesar, crisply flavorful with its garlic-anchovy dressing that was tart and round. The confetti of pecorino Romano cheese shaved over the Romaine added just the right texture and complemented the anchovies beautifully.
Our primary courses included an 8-ounce bone-out short rib Denver Steak and the Whiskey Strip, a 16-ounce bone-out short loin marinated for 12 hours in Woodenville Bourbon. This small-batch whiskey has a toasted oaky flavor and notes of dark chocolate, vanilla, and caramel that paired gorgeously with my medium-rare steak. Served with the house-made creamy horseradish, it fairly melted in my mouth. It’s the kind of steak you eat with your eyes closed, so your taste buds can better savor every nuance.
Allyson stated emphatically that her steak was “perfect.” This was no perfunctory pronouncement to be polite. “One of the things a lot of fine dining establishments get wrong is they refuse to cook my meat the way I want it,” she explained. “The most important part of ordering a steak is knowing they are preparing it precisely like you want it, and I often I don’t get what I want. But this restaurant listened and gave me exactly what I wanted.”
What did Allyson want? “As rare as the chef is comfortable preparing it.” Chef Jason Sirois delivered—and then some. It was bloody, red, and Allyson’s knife still sliced through it like it was butter. (Fun note: the Committee Chophouse provides Laguiole knives for its steaks. Originally designed in the French village of the same name during the late 1820s as a sturdy peasant knife, some believe that the famous bee that adorns the cutlery was conferred by none other than Napoleon as a an Imperial stamp of approval. Whether true or not, Laguiole still produces some of the world’s finest knives, and we appreciated this thoughtful touch of practical luxury for our meal.)
For sides, we started with the Brussels sprouts, perfectly crisped and kissed with a sprinkling of lardons and almonds. They were utterly delectable. We also ordered the Truffle Frites, crisp on the outside, fluffy inside, and utterly challenging to stop nibbling—“The best I’ve ever had in my life,” stated Allyson as she dipped another fry into the tangy lemon aioli. Not content with one form of potatoes, we also ordered a side of the Pommes Aligot, potatoes whipped with decadent amounts of cream, butter, and Gruyère cheese and decorated with snipped chives. “These are really good potatoes. I could eat these in the bathtub,” Allyson dreamily sighed, prompting luxurious visions of solid silver spoons, bubbles, and more champagne.
For dessert, we couldn’t resist having a coffee, sourced from the nearby Archetype, and cutting a wide swath across the menu, opting for a triple-chocolate mousse, the PBJ cheesecake, and the butter brickle ice cream. The cheesecake was smooth and an ideal amalgamation of peanut butter and cheesecake with a jammy compote of fresh berries. In addition to the famous Reuben sandwich, butter brickle ice cream also originated in Omaha, so this not-too-sweet take on this classic was a nice nod to local culinary history. As for the torte with its highlight of a rich chocolate ganache? “Oh my God,” Allyson said.
Really, is any more of a description required?
As we completed our meal, Allyson, my ever game dining companion, smiled and sighed: “I have joyful notes! That meal was a revelation.”
I agree. Committee Chophouse delivered one of the most superior meals I’ve had in years, a rare five-star blockbuster of a gustatory experience. It was fine dining at its absolute finest, an indication that the restaurant isn’t just honoring its legacy, it’s establishing one of its own.
In keeping with its commitment to providing diners with the best beef available, Committee Chophouse is offering a “Summer of Steak” with special steak flight menus from local ranches. July will include selections from Piedmontese Steaks from Lincoln, while August will feature Morgan Ranch from Burwell. September stars Plum Creek Wagyu from Seward. For more information, to view the menu, and make reservations, visit thecommitteechophouse.com.
This article originally appeared in the July/August 2024 issue of Omaha Magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.
