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Omaha, Nebraska. A city renowned for its exceptional beef, boasts a national reputation that revolves around stockyard culture. Nebraskans have strong opinions on the matter—not only on the cuts of steak—but also where to enjoy them.
Omaha, Nebraska. A city renowned for its exceptional beef, boasts a national reputation that revolves around stockyard culture. Nebraskans have strong opinions on the matter—not only on the cuts of steak—but also where to enjoy them.
Jerico’s Restaurant has remained a Dodge Street staple since 1978, withstanding decades of hurdles in an industry that sees businesses open and close their doors within a 5 year average; it stands as a testament to how restaurants maintain their identity and practices in an industry rife with unpredictability and ever-shifting standards.
Upon entering the familiar old building, the establishment presents a classic steakhouse motif: it’s dimly lit with tables surrounded by deep leather bucket chairs and topped with crisp, white linens. The aroma of fresh bread and the smooth baritone of Dean Martin fill the dining room, completing the ambience. It’s a bit like being an extra in a Brat Pack film or visiting the set of Mad Men.
The same is true of the food. Jerico’s is where you dine for the classics: prime rib, filet mignon, New York strip, rib eye steak, porterhouse, and sirloin are the stars of the menu (all preferably cooked to rare, bloody perfection). Lamb and pork chops and grilled quail, lobster, and shrimp are also on offer. For lighter fare, chicken, cod, and salmon round out the dinner options.
Although limited, the wine list offered suitable selections. Uncomplicated red wines, like a Kendall Jackson cabernet or Rodney Strong pinto noir, provided nice counterpoints to any of the red meats on the menu. Whites like a Benvolio pinot grigio and Brancott sauvignon blanc were suitable whites for chicken and seafood. This isn’t the place you go to for a huge wine cellar; it’s where you dine and expect the right wines to complement your dinner choices. Before dining, don’t miss the opportunity to indulge in an old-school cocktail like a Gold Cadillac, Robert’s Bomber, or Brandy Alexander—there’s something rather delightful about settling back deep in those bucket seats with a cocktail glass filled with ice and a boozy concoction.
Like the rest of the menu, appetizers veer toward the classics. Our table’s favorites have typically included the breaded portobello mushrooms, lightly seasoned and wonderfully moist; the shrimp cocktail with tangy cocktail sauce; and the in-shell gooey escargot.
One of the hallmark features of any steakhouse experience lies in the precise preparation and presentation of its star attraction: the steak itself. Prime rib is a Midwest staple and the breakout star on Jerico’s menu. Large and succulent, the medium-rare cut was full of flavor and perfectly representative of legacy steakhouse fare. Baked potatoes always seem like just the right side companion. Nothing quite compliments beef like a fluffy potato smothered in butter and sour cream—plus a little juice from your steak.
This is steakhouse indulgence, after all, so one might as well throw carbs and caution to the wind. As a counterpoint to these heavier selections, the cod was light and flaky, with subtle seasoning and a hint of lemon and butter.
As Omaha becomes increasingly recognized on the national stage for its restaurant nouvelle cuisine and ethnic food offerings, there’s something rather comforting about a legacy restaurant like Jerico’s. Uncomplicated, unfussy, and thoroughly unpretentious, there is a reason the vaunted Dodge Street restaurant is under five years shy of its half century mark. The steakhouse is an Omaha classic and well worth a visit for a taste of meat, potatoes, and yesteryear.
For more information, visit jericosomaha.com
This article originally appeared in the October 2023 issue of Omaha Magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.
This article originally appeared in the October 2023 issue of Omaha Magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.
